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The two most important aspects of mowing are height and frequency. The shortest height of any lawn in this area should be two inches, although the preferred height in Colorado is 2.5" to 3". Mowing less than 2" can result in reduced drought and heat tolerance and a greater chance of insects, disease, and weeds.
Mow the turf often enough so that no more than 1/3 of the blade is removed during any single mowing. Mowing frequency therefore depends on how fast the grass is growing. If weather or another factor prevents mowing at the proper time, raise the height of the mower temporarily to avoid cutting too much at one time. Cut the grass again a few days later at the normal mowing height.
Best practice is to let the grass clippings fall back onto the lawn where they decompose quickly and provide a source of recycled nutrients and organic matter for the lawn. A mulching mower is the best equipment to accomplish this.
Check your blades regularly. Sharpen mower blades every fourth or fifth mowing. A dull mower blade will rip and shred leaf blades instead of cutting them cleanly. The result is an unattractive, white-ish haze that appears on the lawn a day or so after mowing. This also can invite insects and disease to attack the subsequent weakened lawn.
Many factors influence lawn water requirements, and no two lawns are exactly alike. A healthy, high-quality bluegrass or ryegrass lawn may need up to 2.25 inches of water per week under hot, dry, windy summer conditions. It may require much less when the weather is cool or cloudy. Turf-type tall fescue may perform well with less water than a bluegrass lawn, if it can grow a deep root system. In many cases, however, tall fescue requires as much water as bluegrass to look good. Buffalograss and blue grama lawns can remain green for weeks without watering, even during the hottest summer weather.
Shady lawns and areas protected from the wind require less water over the growing season than more exposed turf. However, the roots of mature trees and shrubs also need water. You may have to water more in mature landscapes where the roots of many plants compete for water. Healthy turf, encouraged by proper mowing, fertilizing and cultivation, uses water more efficiently.
Each time you water the lawn, apply enough water to moisten as much of the root zone as possible. Use a soil probe or shovel to determine what the average rooting depth is in your lawn. If the roots grow down 6 inches deep, water so the soil is moistened to that depth.
If the soil is mainly clay, apply 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water to moisten the root zone to a 6-inch depth. A sandy soil can be moistened to 6 inches by as little as 1/2 inch. It is important to know not only how deep the turf roots grow, but also how deep your irrigation water penetrates. Watering too deeply, especially on sandy soils, wastes water and allows it to percolate past the root zone.
Based on the above, grass that grows on sandy soil must be watered more often than the same grass growing on clay or loam soils. Even after a thorough watering, sandy soils hold little plant-available moisture. They require more frequent irrigation with smaller amounts of water. Conversely, turf growing on a loamy-clay soil can be irrigated less frequently, with larger quantities of water. Watering less often means more efficient water use because of less loss to evaporation. It can also reduce the number of weeds that appear in the lawn.
With most soils, do not apply all the water in a short period of time. If applied too quickly, water often runs off of thatchy turf, from sloped areas, or from turf growing on heavy clay or compacted soils. In these cases, it is more effective to apply only a portion of the water and move the sprinkler or switch to another station to water another section of the lawn. This allows water to soak into the soil rather than run off. An hour or so later, apply the rest of the water. Core cultivation (aeration) can resolve some infiltration problems by reducing thatch and compaction. Wetting agents may enhance water movement into the soil, but they should not be considered a cure-all, especially when compaction or thatch are problems.
A sure sign that turf requires irrigation is a wilted appearance. One symptom is "footprinting," footprints on the lawn that do not disappear within an hour. This symptom is soon followed by actual wilting, where the turf takes on a grayish orpurple-to-blue cast. If only a few such spots regularly appear in the same general location, spot water them to delay watering the entire lawn for another day or so. These indicator spots help predict when the entire lawn needs watering. A hardened or toughened lawn, attained through less frequent, deep irrigation, often withstands minor drought and generally has fewer disease problems. It is important, however, that the turf not be allowed to become overly drought-stressed between waterings. This weakens the turf and makes it more susceptible to insect and disease damage and to weed invasion.
During extended dry periods from late fall to spring, it may be necessary to water every four to six weeks if the ground is thawed and will accept water. Pay particular attention to exposed slopes, sites with shallow soil, and south- or west-facing exposures.
The most efficient time of day to water is late evening and early morning (between 10 p.m. and midnight or 8 and 9 a.m.). It generally is less windy, cooler and more humid at this time, resulting in less evaporation and more efficient use of water. Water pressure is generally better and this results in optimal distribution patterns. Contrary to popular belief, watering at night does not encourage disease development.
Check with your local water department before you water at night. Some city ordinances prohibit irrigation during these hours to avoid the waste that occurs when sprinklers are left running in the same place all night.
Hydroseeding is a process that has been around since the 1960's, but only recently gained popularity in Western markets. The product normally is a slurry of water, mulch (paper based or wood fiber based; wood fiber is best), seed, tackifier (a binding agent that 'slickens' the mix when spraying, then holds it together and binds it to the seed bed after it has been applied), fertilizer, and other additives as necessary to 'inspire' quick growth and root establishment. Our equipment is specifically designed to mix these products into a well developed slurry and apply it evenly and accurately onto your property. We have many years of experience and have hydroseeded hundreds of thousands of square feet of many types of seed mixes with great success. Our recipes are proven successful, and we can modify quickly for specific needs or requests. We have developed a very successful technique for the whole process which involves spreading and hand raking half of the seed directly into the soil before the hydroseeding, then applying the other half of the seed with the hydroseeding mix. This ensures that a good portion of grass seed is in direct contact with the soil. While it takes ample time, it is worth the effort and results in a better, quicker germinating lawn for you.
Generally, these steps work great for preparing your seed bed. Spray[*] (or otherwise kill) weeds and/or existing grasses. Till up area making sure to get along all edges and corners so that soil loosening is consistent. Till in any amendments you need/want to add at this point. Some amendments can include rich top soil, compost (1 to 4 yds per 1,000 sq ft), peat moss (1-3 yds per 1,000 sq ft), and/or starter fertilizer. (note: make sure you ensure that any additives are weed free) Rake level and 'pack' to firm up soil. To pack the bed, you can drag it, rake it, drive over it with an ATV, or water it lightly and frequently for a couple days. Lastly, rake to final grade and consistency. Seed bed should be firm but with a ¼" to ½" of loose, 'crumble' on top. Seed bed is preferably dry on the day of seeding since the hydroseeding process works much better on dry, 'crumbly' ground.
Note: Some people like to allow the prepared seed bed to sprout weeds and then re-spray
[*] in a couple of weeks, lightly till (1-1.5") and re-rake (and hydroseeding directly following). This is an ideal practice if you have the time since it will likely result in the least amount of weeds.
[*] When spraying weeds in advance of a hydroseeding application, use only Roundup® or equivalent glyphosate based, non-selective herbicide with a non-ionic spray additive (such as Premier 90, Spray Activator, WetSol, APSA 85, etc.). Do not use 24D etc. as these have a waiting period before you can plant grass. (sometimes up to 45 days).
The wood mulch in the mix is colored green and results in a beautiful looking 'green-ish lawn' just after spraying. However, the dye used to color the mulch is very temporary and will begin to fade usually in less than 12 hours and the color of the mulch will be natural colored in a day or two. Do not be alarmed or disappointed, it will be green again shortly!
You can and should begin watering as soon as the hydroseeding process is finished. The basic rule is this: Water frequently to keep the seed bed moist but not puddling all day. This is why underground sprinklers are very helpful since they can be set to water 3 or 4 times daily to accomplish this important task. Typical timing with underground sprinklers: 3 to 7 minutes for zones with spray heads, 10 to 18 minutes for zones with rotor heads. Start times: 9am, 12pm, 3pm, 6pm. After about 4 to 6 weeks, you can begin to decrease the frequency of watering and increase the quantity of water applied (ie. Water twice a day for twice as long). After about 8 to 12 weeks, you should be able to irrigate the grass in a normal manner.
Evergreen Prime Lawn mix should begin to sprout in 7 to 10 days. This is the perennial ryegrass. Get down and look across the seed bed; you can see it better this way. The Kentucky Bluegrass should begin to sprout around the 21 day mark. The lawn should be ready to mow the first time around the 28 day mark. It should be getting close to fully established in 8 to 9 weeks.
Do not walk on the newly hydroseeded area until it has reached about 70% germination (about 3 weeks). The seed bed will be saturated and soft until this point and traffic from humans or pets will cause undesired footprints that are hard to remove. After three weeks, just limit your activities to times when the lawn has dried down a bit (ie. Don't walk on it just after irrigation.)
You should be able to mow the grass at about the 28 day mark. It may not look like it needs it, but just trimming the tips will help the grass to thicken. Mow the grass at about 3" and mulch it. This provides additional cover and nutrients for the new grass. Mow often (every 4-6 days) if possible at this point. This helps choke weeds and spur on tip and root growth from the grass.
Note: Keep your mower blades sharp (as always). Dull mower blades rip the grass, making the tips look yellow and ragged. This greatly reduces the appearance of the lawn and makes it very susceptible to disease and insect damage.
We put fertilizer in the mix, but it will likely be used up by the new grass at about the 3 week point. At this time, it is good to put on a ½ to ¾ dose of balanced fertilizer with the Nitrogen about 18% to 25%. Put on another half rate of the same fertilizer after another 10-15 days.
Note: These recommendations are dependent on your soil type. Some soil types may take higher rates of fertilizer.
Trust and Patience. Weeds are a common occurrence with hydroseeding. You can take some preliminary measures to limit weeds by doing any or all of the following:
- Double spray [*] with a glyphosate based product. (see Seed Bed Prep)
- Hydroseed in the fall - about Sept 1 to Sept 20 is the best time.
- Use a special pre-emergent herbicide that is safe for hydroseeding (ie. Will not prevent grass seed germination but prevents certain weeds from germinating)
- Use soil additives that are weed seed free.
Weeds will come however, even with the best preparation and proper care. You must have patience and trust that if you follow the guidelines set forth here, the grass seed will sprout, grow, and eventually take over the weeds. You can pull weeds if you desire especially if they start to get large and unsightly. They should pull very easily since the soil is so moist. Just make sure you wait till thesoil is firm enough to walk on it so you don't leave big tracks and pull the big weeds carefully so you don't pull a bunch of grass plants along with it (repair the hole if necessary).
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| April 15th to October 1st |
Acceptable date range for hydroseeding. |
| April 25th to May 5th |
Optimum spring time for hydroseeding. |
| September 1st to September 20th |
Optimum fall time for hydroseeding. |
| Day one: |
Begin to water and keep moist but not puddling all day. |
| Day ten: |
First shoots of grass should be appearing by now. |
| Day 28: |
May be able to mow. If so mow every week, even if you are just taking the tips off. |
| Day 28: |
Apply first dose of fertilizer |
| Day 30: |
Decrease watering frequency by one time per day, increase watering duration to compensate. |
| Day 40: |
If you have mowed twice by now, you can spray weeds. |
| Day 45: |
Apply second dose of fertilizer |
| Day 75: |
Apply third dose of fertilizer and adjust watering cycle to one deep daily application. |
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Thatch is a tight, brown, spongy, organic layer of both living and dead grass roots and stems that accumulates above the soil surface. The interactions among environmental conditions, soil conditions and management practices (irrigation, mowing, fertilization) influence the rate and extent of thatch accumulation. Thatch tends to be a problem on Kentucky bluegrass, bentgrass and fine fescue lawns. It is rarely a problem with tall fescue, wheatgrass, bromegrass or buffalograss. Grass clippings do not contribute to thatch accumulation and should be returned to the lawn during mowing to recycle the nutrients they contain.
Measure thatch buildup by removing a small piece of turf, including the underlying soil. Try to slow buildup when the thatch layer exceeds 1/2 inch in thickness. The thickness can increase quickly beyond this point, making it difficult to control later. As the thatch layer thickens, it becomes the main rooting medium for the grass. This predisposes the turf to drought stress or winter kill and increases the possibility for insect, disease and weed problems. Also, fertilizers and pesticides applied to a thatchy lawn work less effectively.
The white grubs native to this area are typically the white grub of the May/June Beetles. These are the largest of the white grubs. Most injury by these insects occurs along the Eastern Plains, particularly in the southeast area of the state.
Most May and June beetles have a three-year life cycle (Figure 5). Adult beetles emerge during May and June and lay eggs in the soil. Grubs feed during the summer and move deep in the soil to overwinter. Grubs return to the root zone and feed throughout the following summer. May and June beetle grubs cause most injury during this second season of their life cycle. During spring and early summer of the next year, the grubs complete development, cease feeding, and turn into pupae and adults that remain inactive in the soil. Adult beetles emerge next season. Because of their large size, lawn injury by May or June beetle grubs can occur from populations of five or fewer grubs per square foot.
The most important means of limiting grub injury is to grow a vigorous lawn. Healthy, well-watered lawns can tolerate grub feeding more easily than weakly growing lawns.
Several insecticides are registered for use against white grubs (Table 1). White grubs, however, are among the most difficult soil insect pests to control. Large grubs are highly resistant to insecticides. More importantly, because grubs feed in the soil, it is difficult to get adequate amounts of insecticide into the root zone. Under typical conditions, control is often less than 75 percent. Even this amount of control requires a couple of weeks to become evident.
Thatch depth is important to insecticide performance for white grub control. To a varying degree, white grub insecticides bind to the organic matter in thatch. This prevents them from moving into the root zone to control white grubs. A thick layer of thatch (greater than 3/4 to 1 inch) will block all insecticides from penetrating in sufficient amounts to the critical root zone. Treatments combined with soil aeration should increase the effectiveness.
Proper watering can improve performance of certain insecticides. For example, post-treatment irrigations are recommended for imidacloprid (Merit) to reduce the amount of insecticide that remains on leaf tissues. However, excessive watering does not improve the movement of insecticide into the root zone and can decrease the effectiveness of insecticides for soil insect control. Furthermore, excess watering increases potential problems with pesticide and fertilizer runoff.
The form of the insecticide has little effect in white grub control. Granular and liquid sprays often perform equally well.
Optimal control is achieved when a high percentage of young white grubs are present in the upper soil layer (Table 2). A late Spring application appropriate for controlling young May/June beetle grubs. Treatments made against older grubs often result in poor control
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- Eliminate standing water in low spots, ditches, gutters and similar areas.
- Empty weekly or remove receptacles that collect rainwater (bird baths, old tires).
- Mosquito netting and tight screens can provide mosquito-free areas.
- Some mosquitoes are attracted to lights. Reduce unnecessary lighting to make yards less attractive.
- "Bug zappers" do not reduce mosquito landing or biting. They attract and kill many insects but few are mosquitoes that attack humans. Many of the insects killed are beneficial because they feed on Garden pests.
- Ultrasonic devices, such as those that claim to mimic dragonflies, do not affect mosquito activity.
- Light-colored clothing is less attractive to adult mosquitoes. Tightly woven fabrics give some protection against biting.
- Citronella and "Avon Skin So Soft" can be used for short periods of relief. Some naphthalene products (such as "Mosquito Beater") can be broadcast in yards for temporary relief from adult mosquitoes.
- Adult mosquitoes rest in shrubbery and other shaded areas during the day. These areas can be treated with approved insecticides. Foggers for flying insects can also be used, but will provide only short-term relief. Various aerosol insecticides are available for controlling mosquitoes indoors.
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| Some of this information is provided with courtesy to Colorado State University. |
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| 'The Leaflet' is a periodic newsletter put out by Evergreen Landscapes that is chock full of landscape tips and bits of wisdom related to this industry. |
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